NGO's are...

Extremely complicated.
My experience in Nepal has taught me so much about what it means to be an NGO (Non-governmental organization). Previously my only interaction with NGO's was signing petitions for the Sierra Club and other large U.S. based conservation societies. Here in Nepal I've gotten to be in direct contact with many NGO's, as well as spending the last 3 weeks working for one.
Many NGO's are a name only. In Nepal I've been told that there are 84,000 NGO's, while walking around the streets of Kathmandu I saw posters for NGO registration and website building. Of these 84,000 NGO's in a country with a population of about 30 million, 90% are based out of Kathmandu, doing very little work out in the field. These NGO's throw out words and phrases like, "sustainability," "empowerment," "helping people help themselves," "decentralization." "skill building," etc. Catching the eye of international donors, who send money but may never see the project that they're supporting. Much of this money is taken by the "middleman" NGO rather than going to the project, I was quoted 45,000 NRS a month (about $600) as a project coordinator. This is a very good salary in Nepal, thus these NGO jobs are sought out by many educated people who may not have any real desire to help.
Since Nepal opened it's doors to the world in the 1950's foreign aid has come pouring in, and yet the money isn't reaching the villages, before the 1990's all the foreign aid went through the government before being given to different projects, it's known that many of these funds were put directly into the royal coffers. Only in the 1990's were NGO's able to directly receive funds from international donors, and many of these organizations followed in their governments footsteps.
I finished reading a book called Fatalism and Development: Nepal's struggle for modernization by Don Bhandur Bista. This book, although dated, helped to explain so much of what I've been experiencing while working these past three weeks with USSHA foundation. Not only have NGO's been seen as a desirable job for the educated middle class but Nepal itself poses many challenges to those who do want to make a change. Bista's book basically states that since the influx of the Indian Brahmin class who were fleeing the Muslim jihad centuries ago, a "fatalism" has gripped the country. This "fatalism" is based upon the idea that people are born into positions and this determines what they will get from life. Bista states some things that would be extremely difficult for a foreigner to say, let alone see, for example. That education is a goal in itself, rather than a means, and people get education expecting to thus receive a salaried government or more recently NGO job. I've directly experienced this, people not caring what major, just wanting the title. Her also points out some things like, Nepal has a large amount of trained agricultural experts, but why aren't their any significant improvements. He says because the people who are being educated have no intention of going into the field but receiving a government job. This education as a means comes from the idea of "Fatalism," in the past, education was reserved for the elite, who because of their positions in society held high positions. People seek education to reach the same position. In terms of NGO's he reserves a whole chapter among which he points out that the money that does go to the projects, and the projects that are completed often aren't utilized by the communities because they fail to make the connection between the "outsiders" who initiated the project, and their own community property. Without going further this book opened my eyes to the difficulty of development in Nepal. Bista's conclusion is that the resources at the community and village level have to be tapped, people have been living for centuries in amazingly harsh climates, using the communities support to thrive. It is in these decentralized communities where this "fatalism" hasn't reached, people have the desire to improve their lives and know how best to do it.
Opening up the Nepali magazine "The Boss" I found an article titled "US foreign Aid Hinders More Than It Helps" although focusing on Government programs it reaches the same conclusion, that foreign aid isn't necessarily beneficial to those whom it is supposedly helping.
Now, back to my own experience. After three weeks in Rivan, working with an NGO I've gotten to directly experience many of the difficulties that NGO's face, as well as the unorganized nature of this NGO. The concept is wonderful, but in practice they are struggling on how to really reach and benefit the community. I've spent the last three weeks, conducting a survey, talking with community members and doing my best to get the ball moving. It's been hard and frustrating, but an amazing experience nonetheless.
One of the biggest problems that I see in Nepal, is the exportation of the best and brightest young Nepalis. Since I've been in Nepal I've been astounded at the vast majority of youth who have only one goal, to go abroad. The desire is almost the same across the board. Many see Nepal in a negative light and dream of going to the U.S or Europe for school and work. Many Nepalis go abroad to work and support their families back home, the amount of Nepalis in Malaysia, Saudi Arabia, Dubai and other countries is huge. The fact is that there just aren't the opportunities for work here in Nepal. As the population increases and weather patterns become more extreme subsistence farming is becoming more and more difficult for families. Plus, who wants to work all year for only food, when you can work for money which allows you to purchase other goods. USSHA foundation is trying to tackle this very issue by creating jobs within the community, empowering the youth, creating a market for handicrafts and starting a homestay program.
Everything is just in the budding stages, but the potential is there. I was able to help by offering my perspective as a foreigner, looking from without on the situation. I was originally supposed to help them design a permaculture farm, but the idea was scrapped because of it's lack of compatibility with the projects goals. Instead I spent my days talking with people and trying to get an accurate view of what they need and how USSHA Foundation can best address those needs.
I'm filled with a new perspective and inspiration. If I had a longer visa, I think I would jump in and commit myself to this project and see the change happen. There is so much work to do here as well as all over the globe. I've just got to remember that it all begins with a smile.