Saturday, April 23, 2011

Life is...

an adventure, wild, stupendous, interesting, magical, school, challenging, epic.
Tomorrow I leave India for Nepal... there is so much to be said at this point. But life has taken me and won't let me even go to the internet, it's dragging me along and I have to run to keep from being pulled off my feet.
I'm different, I can feel it, almost six months in the famous subcontinent and I've grown a little bit more. The Alex staring into the screen is a different Alex who sat and wrote this last October:

Many people have asked me, "Why India?" To be honest, I have answered this question a hundred different ways. But, I have boiled it all down to a few reasons.

1. Why not!? My goal is to go on the wildest adventure possible, and well India is pretty wild if all the tales hold true.

2. After taking Tom Ward's Permaculture Course I want to go to a place that needs it most. India has been devastated by the use of agrochemicals and much of their water is dependent on snow melt from the Himalayas. With climate change, depletion of their aquifers and loss of topsoil combined with one of the fastest growing populations India is in need of another agricultural revolution.

3. I've decided that I want to be a an Adventurer as my profession. So this will be my introduction into a new way of living :D

4. My knowledge of India is extremely polarized. I know of the Taj Mahal, and I also know about the slums, it is also a place that I is romanticized in my mind. I am going there to make my own conclusions and see the world in a totally new light.

Really, when I wrote this I had no Idea why I chose India, my rational mind was looking for an answer to satisfy it and all the people who had asked me. The truth, as I remember it came randomly one night in Permaculture class. Larry Korn was giving a presentation and I just decided that I had to go to India. I had been looking all over the world and India was one of the options but that night it hit me that India was where I was gong to go. Once I set my mind to it there was no stopping me, even after I crashed my parents car and had to pay $1,500 to get it fixed. Now, I know why I came to India, because only India could have taught me these lessons. I haven't been to many places in the world, but I'm pretty sure that there is no place like this in the world.
The lessons have been numerous, and too many to count, but they've been coming in all forms and they have been shaping me as I traveled through India. I changed with the journey
I left Ashland, exhuberant, without any expectations and totally naive to the reality of India. I arrived without my stuff, I spent a week in Goa, 5 of the days without my bag. I tried to enjoy the beach, sun, parties and travelers with a mindset for partying and sleeping the day away on the sand. I was in a very unhappy place, my girlfriend and I broke up, my grandmother passed on and I was alone in the most densely populated country in the world.
Then I got the invite from Chris Boone, a fellow permaculture student, to head to the deserts of Rajastan and go to the Pushkar Mela (most dense concentration of camels in the world... haha), we city hopped for two weeks, surviving horrible bus rides and paying way to much for everything. I was able to cruise around at top speed and get the feel for "traveling" by many people's descriptions, (Staying on the well trodden footpath, touristy parts of cities, going and looking at sights, etc.) Chris left to meet up with his girlfriend who was in a two week yoga course, and I packed my bags, not sure what to do next. Somehow I met Tara who invited me to live in his home. I was stoked, excited for the opportunity to experience Indian life, but still totally naive, I am a foreigner and I=$$$$, sadly money became an issue, I left after two weeks with Tara not talking to me and wondering what the hell happened? While I was there I had amazing experiences though, like eating lizard, a real desert wedding and acting in a French film as a British Soldier (It almost got me killed, but it's a story for when I get back) I got on the next bus to Amritstar, everyone was heading South to Goa and Karnataka for Christmas, but I was determined to get off the tourist circuit.
Amritstar, the Golden Temple gave me hope, it filled me up in a way that I didn't know that was empty. Here was an example of Humanity working entirely for one another and succeeding. What was the glue? Faith, in Guru Nanak, the Sikh Guru, most importantly in the Universe and God. I stayed for three days and in a passionate joy I volunteered non-stop in as many parts of the things that make the place work as possible. All the will lifting my head to a Golden plated Temple, nestled withing a lake ringed by a white marble walkway and buildings. Here was Religion in the most tangible positive form I've ever seen. Run entirely by volunteers. I left, the three day stay limit pushed me onward.
I went to McLeod Ganj, the Tibetan lifebloods stronghold, nestled on the first slopes of the Himalaya. I spent over a week helping in conversation classes at two different volunteer centers. I went to hear some ancient Tibetan Lama teach on Tibetan Buddism, in the course met Laura Haley and Ana. They told me about the Dalai Lama's teaching and invited me along. I had a bizarre Christmas night there, climbed the mountains with a monk, and spent the Solstice in a lodge on one of the ridges over the town.
I went to Rishikesh next, or I planned too, but I met a couple on the bus there who convinced me to go to Navdana, Vandana Shiva's seed saving projects volunteer farm, there was no work and I was recovering from Giardia so I rested for three days and had an equally unique New Years. When I got to Rishikesh I stayed in an Ashram and practiced yoga everyday. I took my first dip in the Holy Ganges, and hiked around the hills.
Laura, Haley and I went through all the misery's of the world ( Tibetan concept, basically hell), to get to the Dalai Lama's teachings, at least that is how we justified our carelessness in missing our train and the amazingly difficult 22 hour train ride in general class, it also included my second ( or reocurrent) bout of Giardia.
Saranath was amazing, Ana had gone ahead and gotten one of the coveted houses to rent in Saranath for the week, with her big heart she couldn't say no to the monks and lama who were looking for a room as well. 2 rooms and one bathroom slept 13, 7 foreigners and 6 monks, we slept 7 on the bead, head to toe, longways on the bed. I was really cold and it was like making a puzzle with our bodies but we managed to make it work. We all cooked together and I learned to make the fatty and warming foods of the Tibetans. The teaching we're powerful, if not extremely hard to stay attentive, so much information was being given and I'm still unearthing what was taught. His teachings were basically on Shantideva's book "The Bodisatva Way of Life." Directly after the teachings I walked out into the country side using my minimal Hindi to find one of the many Vipassana Meditation Centers that are aparently all over the world but especially in India. In Rishikesh I flipped a coin to decide whether or not to go I did a 10 day silent Meditation course, needless to say I spent 90% of the time thinking. One thought that did come to mind was that my place is to wander and learn from the world, not to go back to the U.S. When out of curiosity I still flipped the coin to try leaving it up to chance it fell into my rolled up pant leg vertically.
One of the other meditators, Joakim from Sweden, told me that he was going to Varanassi to learn Hindi from an amazing teacher. I was all ears, I tried in Rishikesh and really wanted to learn as my wander continued. I landed in Munna house, as unique as the city it belongs too and started taking Hindi classes every day. I would walk to and from my classes talking to as many of the friendly, curious, bothersome, and of course expert sales men that would stop talking long enough to allow me to throw in a few Hindi words. Slowly my wanders expanded and the track two and from class made me a regular. Both made me many friends who I would get to repeat the same questions and answers to all day and every day, I tried to give myself and extra half hour to an hour to get there. I practiced Hindi everyday, I tried to volunteer, it was a bust, but I spent two fruitless weeks struggling to move a boulder uphill and in the dark. Finally I relented and learned another lesson from the City of Light and Knowledge. I finished my mindblowing time here with another leap into the unknown, the Panchkroshi Yatra. A pilgrimage of 75-88 Kilometers, started at midnight on March first (Started writing it twice, and twice pooja's computer crashed to an all time low that it had to be entirely reconfigured and all the information was lost), it is done barefoot, it took me about 13 hours to complete, the physical journey is only the silhouette of what went on inside during the walk. It's an adventure for the books, the wildest thing I've done in India.
Then I went back to Dehradun to try my first workaway experience, it was amazing, I spent the first two weeks going up and down the mountain every day, in the evenings I managed to finally finish my Teaching English as a Second Language course, which put my mind at ease when the kids called me "sir." Holy was a maelstrom of color and food. Then I moved up to the village for the two weeks of intense preparation for the first Annual function. It was stupendous (I'm having fun with the adjectives :D), the other volunteers and I painted the classroom, and assisted in everything involved as much as we can. We spent the evenings dancing around fires and I would run off on my own to hike up the mountains and lose my camera. I stayed up at the village an extra day, the villagers killed a deer, which I recieved a little and cooked up for the last meal on the mountains, as well as Aloo Gobi and Kashmiri Pulou that Temuz made. Vinod one of the local teachers told me, a foreigner, that I liked my food spicy, I was ecstatic, it was the best compliment I've ever received about my cooking! (I outspiced an Indian! haha)
I spent the day saying goodbye to everyone and drinking enough chai to have my stomach explode, I promised half the village that I'd come back. There's a piece of my heart there. Temuz and I got to see a local ceremony done for Kali (The divine feminine in her dark form), it was totally unexpected and new.
I left Derhadun after spending a say with Pooja and the family, she's my Indian mother, I'll admit to having at least 3 if not many more ;) Then I went to Rishikesh, a week back practicing Yoga and swimming in the Ganges. I left a day early, nothing planned, but wielding a new tool, Hindi. I breezed through travel like never before. The day was amazing from start to finish, Hanuman's birthday, and I received his blessing. A monkey stole my fruit, then I traded my too large of a backpack for a smaller one, a yoga mat and croc shoes (my third pair since the start), I had some real luck that day. I went to Hardiwar, enjoyed the festival, bathed in the Ganges and got the train at Midight for Varanassi, I was no worse for the ware on my repeat of my first experience. This time I was able to sleep in every contorted position possible, almost as comfortably as the indians that shared the crowded compartment, I slept on the luggage rack.
Varanasssi, round two, here I am again, another level of the city has been opened to mee since I've left. Language is the key to the culture, I've just begun to crack the door open and see the beauty that lies beneath the shit, dirt and trash. I'm now a chela of a Baba on the Ghat's basically I'm part of the Temple family who takes care of the Baba, who doesn't deal in money. I've cooked, washed the temple and shopped for food. Last night he called me his chela for the first time, it basically means student, but with many underlying connotations and culture attached, I can't wait till I can sit and really talk to him about some real stuff, now my language is limited to everyday life. I have fallen in love with this city, there is a power here that runs deep through every layer of this place. Haunted in history, faith and magic. A little bit of my soul will still be here, wandering, when I leave. Tomorrow I leave for Nepal, my Indian visa expires on the 25th, if all goes as I imagine, I'll be crossing the border that very day.

Wow, not quite sure how I got here, I hope it makes sense. I didn't know where that was going to lead. I'm off to do my rounds see, my Hindi Guru and Baba Jee as I call them before going to listen and probably sleep at the Indian music concert that started yesterday. The concerts go all night, I had wonderful sleep to classical Indian music last night. The best acts don't start until 3 or so in the morning.

Thank you India, thank you everyone who has been supporting me with their love and thoughts through my journey here. I really would not have been able to do this if I didn't know that I was being fully supported by my parents, family, friends and community. I am so blessed.
One Chapter is coming to a close, now only the Universe knows what is going to be written in this "choose-your-own-adventure" novel next :D

Kush Raho (Be happy)

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