Monday, November 22, 2010

part 2

I'm not sure if I said in the last post that Gangaram invited us to see his cows in the morning and get some fresh milk. And he told us that we were going to have a party the next evening on top of the mountain.
Well, the next morning Chris and I wandered around the outskirts of town looking for his cows. We ended up making it to his gate but since no one was there we thought we'd missed the place. No, it turns out he was just late, by 45 minutes. But if I've learned one thing here, it's that nothing seems to work out the way you imagine it will. When we saw him he was carrying a bag of grain for the cows on his head. I do not understand how the people are so good at carrying things on their hear. I can't do it at all. His mother came shortly after. They let the cows have some milk and then in a flash both were milked in a little over 10 minutes. We both got a cup of milk. It was much less creamy than I imagined. But being cows that have to forage on desert scrub. I guess it isn't too surprising. With a glass of milk for breakfast we headed towards the other mountain top temple. It was time to take on the bigger one. We saw many monkeys and had to battle our way through the throngs of pilgrims, but we made it! At the top we had an even better vista than at the other temple. There was a cafe at the top, that served only chai. So of course we got a steaming cup of burnt chai! At one point I looked up and noticed hundreds of butterflies. they were small and white, and cruising. I've never seen a butterfly migration before, but it was what I assume one looks like. Chris made comment as they were passing how butterflies always seem so light and fragile. But these were flitting their way along, hundreds of feet in the sky.
When we got back into town Chris and I split our ways for a little while. I went to one of the only temples to Brahma in the world. Got pushed and shoved by women in multicolored saris and did a ceremony with a brahmin at the lake in the middle of town.
Chris and I bought some fruit and went back to the mountain top. It was a party... Indian style. We took part in the pooja which was a riot. It was loud and proud! Gangaam played the drums while a friend did most of the chanting. I didn't understand it mcuh but my ears were sure singing from standing in the little room. Gangaram had told us music, and that was it. Shenkar had to walk back down the mountain to get things for dinner., He told me that tonight it would be even better than before, because he'd been preparing the food in his mind since the morning :D Dinner was the same as the night before, but with a couple of added touches. We ate happily and watched the fireworks display from down below. Since I've been in India there have been fireworks almost every night. and their not even bottle rocket status. But full on bombs.

Sunday, November 21, 2010

Busses and a story

The night bus was an adventure, 8 hours of the bumpyest ride I ahve ever been on. Chris and I were in the back of the bus and we were catching air while we tried to sleep. I am in Udaipur, which is a beautiful city. We are in a hostel in the tourist quarter of the city. There are more tourists here than Indian people... at least it seems that way.
It is pouring outside, for some reason I have brought the rain wherever I ahve been. When I was in Ecuador a month and a half ago, it was raining on the coast at a time when no rain was supposed to be falling. Then when Becka and I went to L.A. it rained as well. Now in India, it has rained in almost every city I have been too. The local people have been saying things like "this is the first time it has rained like this during the Camel Festival in 25 years." Actaully, the guy in the internet cafe is telling another guy that it never rains in November and December, and yet it is pouring. I'm glad I brought rain gear.
And now for a story, I've been promising one of these for a while. And since it is raining, and I'm exhausted from hiking around the hills yesterday I'll tap away at the keyboard while the rain rolls down the cobblestone streets in sheets.
A week ago or so, Chris and I went to Pushkar to the camel fair. We spent the day wandering around the camel fair gawking at the camels. There were also many horses, and cows that were being traded. One kind of horse, Malawari (spelling?) are beautiful and huge horses, there was one that was going for $120,000 abouts. Anyways, Chris and I decided to hike up a small hill outside of town and check out the temple on top. The hike was more of a walk but when we got to the top it was dark out and we were the only people up there. We walked into the little temple and the Baba( holy man) was in the room with one other guy. We walked in and sat down in front of the little shrine. The other man was named Gangaram, he was very talkative and we passed through the, "what's your name?" and "where are you from?" questions quickly because he spoke quite well. I learned that he was the caretaker of the little shrine. There were crickets everywhere, and well they were hopping into our clothes at various times creating a very animated conversation. I later learned that after the harvest the crickets have no where to live so they come to the cities and inhabit every crack. I have never seen so many crickets. Gangaram invited us to dine with everyone and we had the local dish of bati and dhal. It was very good, and probably the spiciest thing to ever pass my lips. The baba's forehead was covered in sweat. If it was too spicy for an Indian it should have been much to spicy for us. Bati is corn flour made into balls and is quite tasty. The cook Shenkar was a funny guy who spoke almost no english, but the little that he did know was hilarious. He told us some jokes that other tourists have taught him. most were raunchy, and I'm not sure if he totally understood their meaning. After dinner Gangaram invited us to the fair grounds. Shenkar and Gangaram led us to a chai shop where we met some of his friends. At this point it was a party. Gangaram was a people magnet. Soon we had a crowd around us just because of the mix of Indians and Foreigners. He invited some french women to join us and then the stories of broken English and Hindi began. The best part of the whole thing was that Gangaram kept on ordering Chai's for people and then as we were leaving he told me that I was paying for it... haha! I paid, he fed me dinner so I wasn't going to complain.

Friday, November 19, 2010

Thus Far... Everthing has been nuts

I am having the time of my life. This is the adventure that I was really needing to do. I am doing too much to be able to describe the day to day things that I have been doing. But I am going to try to tell each "adventure" as best as I can. Everyday is an adventure. Almost every mundane thing you can imagine, like getting something to eat means getting some totally new looking and tasting dish for dirt cheap.
I am in Bundi, soon to leave on a night bus to Udaipur. I have been told that 10 people die every night in India on the roads. This is because the people drive just as crazy as in the day, and many do not have lights. The bus ride here was like being hand washed by the many Indian women I see scrubbing and bashing clothes against rocks to wash them. It was that bumpy.
Chris, a friend from Ashland who I'm traveling with, and I had to dry our clothes inside our room because the monkeys would take them. The owners of the place have two guns to shoot them. The monkeys here have adapted to living amongst the humans, they sleep in the hills around town and come down in the day to forage.
This trip is amazing. There is no real way to convey this experience without actually being here. Many times it feels like a whole new world. Standards just aren't the same here. I am exhausted, I have a bus to catch tonight and we rode 30 kilometers to a waterfall in the desert today.

Friday, November 12, 2010

New Delhi

I am in the hustle and bustle of new Delhi! I flew from Goa to New Delhi last night and today I will catch a train to Rajistan. On the plane I met Stephen, a German who imports Indian crafts to Germany. He took me under his wing and save me from my sure to be crash landing. My original plan was to arrive in New Delhi and catch a train directly to Jaipur. But that proved to be a fools dream. I haven't been planning almost anything on this trip, just trying to wing things and go with the flow. Sitting next to Stephen was a godsend. He has been traveling in India for the past 10 years. He told me that there was no way I was going to make the train and that the office to buy tickets closes at 8. I made it into the office at 5 'till and bought my ticket for 3 PM today.
Stephen took me out to eat and told me amazing stories about India. The street where I am today has actually been widened in the last year. Slowly the vendor crept their shops into the street for the last 30 years and the government came in just this last year and made them all move back. He told me how every time he comes things have changed and it is hard to recognize some things. He is so inspired by this country and the people that it rubbed off on me.
The city is so alive. I ate out on the street this morning for less than a dollar and I feel better than I have felt this whole trip. The first week was hard because I didn't have my stuff and I just couldn't jive with the party vibe of Goa. I spent last night literally in a whole in a wall room, Harry Potter style. There is a bed and a tiny bathroom and that's all. I am going to pack my backpack and catch the metro train into old Delhi, wander around and catch my train. The adventure seems to be just beginning!

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Goa isn't India

Hello everyone! I have had quite the adventure with much, much more to come. I have been in Goa, India which is on the bay of Bengal in southern India for 6 days. I've spent most of those six days sitting around acclimating in one pair of clothes. My backpack didn't make it on the flight from Denver to Newark and I only received it yesterday. Now that I have my bag I realize that I've brought way to much stuff. Everyone told me that I wouldn't want to bring much, but really what they were saying was that here, you don't have to bring anything. Everything can be bought in India for almost nothing.
Goa is an international party scene, who would have thought, there are people from all over the world here to party with people from all over the world. I've mostly been relaxing because there is yoga at 8:00 AM every morning which I have been going to daily. Anjuna, which is in the province of Goa is actually known specifically for a certain party spot known as The Hilltop, I have yet to make it up there.
One thing that is absolutely hilarious is that i brought my high powered laser pointer to India thinking it would be all that. It turns out you can buy the exact same ones for a quarter of the price. At night you can see the beams slashing through the sky. Anjuna is full of tourists, there are more tourists than locals it seems. The combination of beach and party has brought people together, Obama should really come and check it out!
Today, I went to the Anjuna market, it is a very famous goods market that happens every Wednesday. Think Oregon Country Fair mixed with Indian subcontinent. It was crazy. In this one market I literally could probably have bought everything I have in my bag. They were selling fake North Face backpacks, Kashmiri shawls, drums, toys, jewelry, clothes, fake antiques among the multitude of colors and smells. I didn't buy a single thing. I have too much stuff already, so why buy something else, and besides, every tourist here has the same Om patterned shirt and Thai wrap-around pants. But don't worry, when i come back to the U.S. I will be sporting every bright color and wacky pattern that I can find here. I'll just buy it all in a few months.
India is really something else, nothing like anything I've ever experienced. I asked for an adventure, and that's what I got. I have had some interesting things happen to me so far. The one that really jumps into my mind is that I've been banned from a restaurant here, basically I ordered a dish with crab. The crab was so small, smaller than anything I've ever been given before. These crabs were seriously had almost no meat on them. So I asked if they could make me something else. There was a little discussion between me and the waiter and they said yes. I didn't even get to pick what they made, they just gave me pasta. So I ate the pasta and when the bill came both things were on the bill. I told the waiter and he got it the crab dish erased but didn't change the total. I was eating with three french guys who don't speak the greatest english, the bill's total didn't add up correctly at that point and they asked the waiter about it before I got a chance to explain what had happened. Before I knew it, this British ex-pat was getting in my face telling me that no one complained before about the food, and began to yell at me. I was trying to explain what had happened but he didn't have any of it. The situation ended with him telling me to fuck off and saying that I had to pay for both dishes. To say the least i was startled, so I just paid for the bill and left. Today I went into the same bar with a new Swiss friend to play chess and the same Ex-pat, I'm assuming he's the owner, got in both of our faces telling us we had to leave... So far I've made more people angry in one week than I have in over a year, and all in the name of adventure.

Saturday, November 6, 2010

First Impressions

India is a whole different world. Here's some of my first impressions.

1. The head wobble is awesome body language, everyone wags their head from side to side when they are in agreement or to say "yes"?
2. It seems to be a habit of drivers to drive across the median rather than in their lane.
3. Indian public restrooms smell like Indian food...
4. Everyone wants to be "my friend" and sell me whatever they possibly can.
5. Indian people are genuinely friendly and nice if you can get past their first attempt to sell you stuff.

So far I am loving the adventure. Without going to much into detail, traveling was hectic as always. It took 2 days to get here, over 20 hours on a plane. Today is my first day in India. I am in a very touristy area which is nice for my transition time. My backpack disapeared somewhere between Colorado and Mumbai, so I don't have my stuff.
I met a Japanese traveler and we are sharing a house together for about $8 a night. He doesn't speak much english and I don't speak japanese, nonetheless we are enjoying each others company.

Love to Everyone!

More blog posts to come!